I love food. Always have, always will. Living in Italy, I’m spoiled with some of the best food in the world. I’m constantly trying new, regional dishes and they’re all fantastic. However, at 31 years old my life forever changed when I had my first bite of focaccia col formaggio in Recco, a small town on the Ligurian coast of Italy.
When I say focaccia what do you think of? For me, I imagine a thick, fluffy piece of bread sometimes topped with olives, onions, or tomatoes. Basically, I envision this:
Now, throw anything you’ve ever learned or thought about focaccia out the window. The focaccia in Liguria, specifically out of a little town called Recco, introduces us to a unique focaccia. Focaccia di Recco, or Focaccia col formaggio.
It’s essentially hot, oozing cheese stuffed between thin, flaky layers of dough. And while it may not always have the most appetizing look, just wait until you try it.
There are few words to describe my surprise and delight when tasting focaccia col formaggio for the first time in my life. I couldn’t tell if I was speechless from awe or the fact I couldn’t stop stuffing it in my mouth.
How can this get any better, I think to myself. Then, I look up and see another tray of focaccia – this time with a heaping dollop of Ligurian pesto on top. That’s exactly how it can get better.
So, now that I have your attention you’re probably wondering where you can eat some? First, let’s discuss whether you’d be eating Focaccia di Recco or Focaccia col Formaggio. During your trip to Italy you can find Ligurian focaccia shops in Rome, Milan, and Florence, but you’ll notice they will have the label Focaccia col Formaggio and not Focaccia di Recco. That’s because Focaccia di Recco has a PGI label.
PGI means “Protected Geographical Indication.” This is different from the other common acronyms you may have heard associated with Italian production, like DOC or DOCG. These fall under a different category, DOP, meaning the “Protected Designation of Origin.” DOP is more strict as all steps of production must take place in the region. PGI only requires one.
Therefore, if you want to eat authentic Focaccia di Recco, you can only do so in the approved municipalities: Recco, Sori, Avegno, and Camogli. Everything else is simply Focaccia col Formaggio (still absolutely delicious, I might add).
Still confused? Here is a helpful article breaking down the differences.
I recommend coming to try the original – who doesn’t want to be taking a bites out of this magical focaccia with a marvelous view of the sea? I recommend trying Tossini, Focacceria Manuelina, Panificio Moltedo Titta, or Focaccia D’autore. Keep in mind almost every restaurant will also have it on their menu.
If you’re like me, you’ll head to one of them and order of feast of not only focaccia col formaggio, but all of the other goodies they serve. That first bite will change your life.
Do you have the motivation to visit Liguria after this? Check out some of my other Ligurian posts below: