The Costa Smeralda is Sardinia’s most glamorous stretch of coastline – where turquoise waters meet white-sand beaches, and yachts float just offshore. While the area is known for its luxury, you don’t need to be a celebrity to enjoy it. Base yourself in Capriccioli, and you’ll have access to some of the most beautiful beaches in Italy, charming towns, and cultural sights. Here’s how we spent 5 days in Costa Smeralda balancing beach time, cultural discoveries, and a taste of the Costa Smeralda lifestyle.
Table of Contents
Quick Overview of the 5 Days in Costa Smeralda Itinerary
- Day 1 & 2: Relaxing beach days at Pirata & Celvia
- Day 3: More beach time + dinner at Agriturismo Zabè
- Day 4: Nuraghe La Prisgiona & coastal port towns (Porto Rafael, Porto Cervo, Porto Rotondo, Poltu Quatu)
- Day 5: Beach day + evening at Phi Beach
Before you continue: This guide is just one section of my guide, The Perfect 2 Week Sardinia Itinerary (Costa Smeralda, Su Gologone, Alghero, and La Maddalena). Make sure to check it out if you need help planning the remainder of your Sardinian adventure.
Day 1 & 2: Beach Days at Pirata & Celvia
When you arrive in Capriccioli, there’s really only one thing to do: head straight to the beach. The best part about Capriccioli is that there are about 4 or 5 beaches within a 10-minute walking distance on the little peninsula. My personal favorites are Pirata Beach and Celvia Beach.
Of course, if you are willing to drive, there are a plethora of beach options along the coast! Another nearby hot-spot to relax at are the beaches near Golfo Aranci.
Some beaches offer umbrella and sunbed rentals (given we’re in the priciest area of Sardinia you can expect between €60–90 for two beds + umbrella for the day) and small kiosks where you can grab snacks or drinks.
In the evenings on the first two nights, in order to offset some of the costs, we cooked most of our dinners at home. Don’t get me wrong, there are incredible dining options here – but they all come with a hefty price and make sure you confirm if they require a minimum spend per person (which sometimes happens in the busy August period). As always, book as far in advance as possible to ensure a slot.
Day 3: Another Beach Day + Dinner at Agriturismo Zabè
By day three, you’ll be adjusted to the rhythm of Costa Smeralda life: swim, sun, repeat. We explored another nearby beach (Capriccioli itself, or Liscia Ruja, are both excellent choices) and spent the day alternating between lounging and reading on our sunbeds and then cooling off in the sea.
On this evening, we traded self-catering for a traditional Sardinian dinner at Agriturismo Zabè, which you must visit!
Agriturismos are farm-stays that sometimes have on-site restaurants providing meals made with local produce, almost always grown or raised on-site. At Zabè, the team offers a fixed multi-course menu.
We dined outside in a dreamy setting under the stars and a few strands of string lights. It was very romantic, but not just for couples! We saw families, groups of friends traveling together, and it was a mix of ages. Come hungry because you can expect a generous feast: antipasti, handmade pasta, roast meats, cheeses, and desserts.
One of my favorite parts was the presentation of the digestifs. Mirto is a Sardinian speciality – our server brought out an enormous case of multiple bottles of various flavored mirto to try!
Day 4: Nuraghe la Prisgiona & Porto Towns
After a few days of beaches, it’s time to explore Sardinia’s culture and coastal towns. This portion of the itinerary is also great to keep as a backup in case of poor weather that can offset your beach plans.
Nuraghe la Prisgiona
Let’s take a quick pause from the sun and embrace seeing a nuraghe at the fascinating Bronze Age archaeological site in the Arzachena area. This is true Sardinian history! A nuraghe is a cone-shaped stone tower that can only be found across Sardinia.
In fact, there are actually over 7,000 nuraghe throughout Sardinia! We did some research on which ones were the best preserved and largest to help us narrow down where to visit and we decided on Nuraghe La Prisgiona.
Here you can wander the stone towers and village remains, learning about Sardinia’s ancient Nuragic civilization. For those who are more visual, like myself, see the recreation of what this used to look like years and years ago!
There is the option of guided tours or you can explore on your own.
Port Hopping
This afternoon was one of my favorite portions of our 5 days in Costa Smeralda. We set out to explore the glamorous port towns that define the Costa Smeralda. Each of them has its own vibe and it was so much fun to see the differences.
Porto Rafael: The most charming, colorful, and low-key. I suggest shopping at some of the boutiques and either eating in the port or grabbing lunch at Harry’s Bar.
Porto Cervo: This is the beating heart of Costa Smeralda’s luxury scene. It is full of designer boutiques, mega-yachts, and very good people-watching.
Porto Rotondo: Here you’ll find a lively marina, pretty piazzas full of restaurants and boutiques, and beach clubs.
Poltu Quatu: This is a hidden marina tucked into a fjord-like cove, with chic restaurants and bars.
All of the ports are fun to explore during the day, but at night they take on a life of their own. Be prepared to to put on your chicest outfit and highest heels. Oh, and if you are trying to party here, it starts late.
This day gives you a taste of Sardinia’s luxury lifestyle: yachts, aperitivi, and quaint harbors. Even if you’re not here to shop designer labels, the towns are fun for strolling and people-watching.
Day 5: Final Beach Day, San Pantaleo, & Evening at Phi Beach
After 5 days in Costa Smeralda we are finishing it with…surprise! The beach! I promise you’ll never get tired of the turquoise waters here. Choose your favorite spot from earlier in the trip and soak it in.
In the afternoon we drove to San Pantaleo, a historic town that overlooks the rocky formations surrounding it.
In the evening, celebrate your final night at Phi Beach, one of Costa Smeralda’s most famous beach clubs. The true beauty of Phi Beach is during sunset. So, if you want to grab a drink or two and enjoy sunset
After sunset, there is usually a line-up of world-class DJs. As with most things in Costa Smeralda, Phi Beach comes with a price tag. Expect to pay at least €20 for cocktails and €10 for water. And be prepared that unless you’ve paid (lots of money!) for a table or lounge chair, there is no where to sit or put your drinks.
Despite some of these annoying things, I think it is at least worth planning to go for an aperitivo and sunset. If you go for a DJ set, brace yourself – the headliner usually comes on at 1am.
Practical Travel Tips for Costa Smeralda
- Getting There: Costa Smeralda is about 30-40 minutes from Olbia Airport by car depending on where you are staying. Having a car is essential for exploring. Public transportation is nearly non-existent and by the time you spend all of your money on cabs, you may as well have rented a car.
- Where to Stay: Villas and apartments near Capriccioli are perfect for longer stays; luxury seekers can opt for resorts near Porto Cervo.
- Best Time to Visit: Late May/June and September offer warm weather with fewer crowds and better prices. July and August is the high season, so it is busy and expensive (but with no shortage of fun events!).
- Budget Tip: Balance self-catering meals with splurge dinners (agriturismos and beach clubs).
- Length of Stay: 5 days in Costa Smeralda is ideal to acquaint yourself with the surrounding areas and relax at the beaches. You can happily extend if you’re a big beach lover.
FAQs
Is Costa Smeralda only for luxury travelers?
No. you can enjoy the beaches and towns on any budget. For instance: opt for booking your stay with an on-site kitchen, so you can cook prep more meals at home. Choose to stay on the free portion of the beach instead of paying for sun beds. Eat at agriturismos more inland instead of the ritzy restaurants on the coast.
What are the best beaches near Capriccioli?
Pirata, Celvia, Liscia Ruja, and Capriccioli itself are all must-visits.
Do I need a car in Costa Smeralda?
Yes. Public transport is very limited and the best beaches are not accessible without one. If you want to explore beyond your hotel, it is necessary. Also note: there are not many walking paths along the roadways, so even if Google Maps suggests there is a feasible walking route, be careful as it could potentially be dangerous.
I hope you enjoy your 5 days in Costa Smeralda!
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